Sewing: Joining of fabric by the use of needle and thread is called sewing. Sewing section is the biggest section in a garments industry. It is done to produce seam. Sewing department is the heart of a manufacturing unit. Cut components are assembled in sewing department in assembly line. List of sub-processes those are done in sewing department includes.
- Making garment parts
- Sewing full garment
- Making garment accessories like dori, tabs, cords etc.
- Checking of stitched garments
- Alteration work of defective garments
Seam: Seam can be defined by flowing ways:
- The line of joining fabric is called seam.
- The application of a series of joining of fabric by sewing is called seam
- Seam is the join between two or more piles of material.
Properties of seam : Properties of seam are assessed on the following aspects
Appearance: After sewing, the sewn area is observed for any defects, if present which affects outlook. Normally it is expected that there will be no defective view of stitches, seam pucker, or unsightly view.
Performance: Performance of a seam is assessed according to following criteria-
- Seam Strength: Strength of a seam should be equal to or slightly less than the fabric strength.
- Seam elasticity: Elasticity property of a seam should be equal to or greater than the fabric elasticity.
- Durability: Durability of a seam equal to or greater than the durability of the fabric. Especially during wear and washing, the seam should not fail or damage due to frictional forces and tension.
- Security: During normal use of apparels, the seam should not fail due to simple reason. Confidence of normal stability of seam is the security of the seam. If the seam fails due to normal reason the situation might be undue.
Types of seam: According to BS 3870, 1991 seams are classified as below:
Class 1 (Super Imposed Seam):
- One fabric end is uniformly placed to another fabric end
- Most widely used seam
- Varieties of stitches are used.
Uses: Mostly used inside seam like as shirt and pant
Class 2 (Lapped Seam)
- Formed by lapping of two piles of fabric
- Two fabric ends are placed in opposite direction then lapping is sone and then stitching
Uses: Used in certain types of shirt or blouses
Class 3 (Bound Seam)
- An edge of the fabric is bounded by another fabric
- The fabric may be of different color
- Widely used seam
- The purpose of bound seam is finish an edge of fabric.
Uses: Man’s underwear, pant etc
Class 4 (Flat Seam)
- Two or more fabric ends are joined without overlapping
- Seam can be made with gap between two fabric for decorative purpose
- Two piles of fabrics are kept side by side and they are sews together by zigzag stitching
Uses: Extensively used in undergarments & knit wear.
Class 5 (Decorative Seam)
- This is the first of the two classes of seam which, in the old British Standard, were not regarded as seams at all and were given the name ‘stitching’.
- The main use of this seam is for decorative sewing where single or multiple rows of stitches are sewn through one or more layer of fabric. These several layers can be folds of the same fabric.
Class 6 (Edge Neatening Seam)
- Seam is used to bind the edge of fabric so that the threads can’t draw off
- Mainly made by over lock sewing m/c
- Exclusively used.
Class 7 (Applied Seam)
- In this class relate to the addition of separate items to the edge of a garment part.
- They are similar to the lapped seam except that the added component has a definite edge on both sides.
- Examples would be a band of lace on the edge of a bra
Class 8 (others Seam)
- The final seam class in the British Standard is another where only one piece of material need involved in constructing the seam.
- The commonest seam type in this class is the belt loop as used on jeans, raincoats, etc.
0 comments:
Post a Comment
Your comments will be warmly appreciated. Please comment us